The Plaid Handbook
The Plaid Handbook
A field guide to the pattern that never dies
Introduction
More Than
a Pattern.
This handbook began as an internal document. As it grew, we found it was too interesting not to share.
To know where you're going, you have to know where you've been. Pladra was born out of respect for those that came before us, and for all the hard work it takes to make a high quality, timeless flannel shirt. We believe that to make the best product possible, you have to fully understand its roots.
Why has this simple pattern been embraced in so many forms throughout history? What follows is our attempt to break down every aspect of plaid, from how it's made to its many types. But most importantly, we want to help answer the big question everyone asks: why does plaid never die?
Definitions
Plaid, Tartan
or Flannel?
When you hear the word plaid, you instantly think of a flannel shirt, as though the two are synonymous. The word flannel conjures images of lumberjacks, grunge music, and poorly dressed dads. And traveling overseas, you may hear it called tartan. Let us clear this up.
What we know as plaid today is a specific textile pattern made from bands of colored thread at different widths that cross each other to form squares and checks. The Scottish origins of the word plaide have a different meaning: in Gaelic it refers not to the pattern at all, but to a large rectangular piece of fabric. Essentially, it's a blanket worn as clothing, wrapped and belted much like a toga.
Those blankets were woven with the square-like patterns the Highland Scots called tartan. Tartan is the Scottish and European term for what we call plaid today. The pattern was so commonly used on the plaide blankets that it's understandable why the terms became interchangeable in American culture.
Finally, flannel is not a pattern at all. It's simply a type of soft, woven fabric built for warmth. Originally made from wool or worsted yarn, flannel is woven and then brushed with a fine metal comb, which raises the fibers. This lets the fabric trap more air, raising its warmth-to-weight ratio and making it softer to the touch.
The Beginning.
A brief history of where plaid came from, and how it's been interpreted over thousands of years.
History of Plaid
The most common belief is that tartan and plaid originated in the 5th–6th century BC with weavers in Northern Britain and Ireland, though similar patterns have been found in Egypt and Asia even earlier. The earliest intact sample discovered is the Falkirk Tartan, which dates to the 3rd century AD and now resides in the National Museum of Scotland.
Tartan hit its heyday in the 1600s when weaving practices improved, allowing more complex detail. The Highland Scots adopted the pattern to identify their clans, families, hunting parties, and armies. Each clan created its own tartan, worn on clothing, kilts, and blankets. It was a flag and a crest that tied them to status, craft, and wealth. If you have a Scottish last name, chances are there's a tartan somewhere in your family tree.
Three of Our Favorites
A Clan for
Every Pattern
Hundreds of tartans evolved to signify individual clans. Behind each one lies a unique story of history and tradition.
Lockhart
Originally named Locard, this clan settled in Lanarkshire in the 12th century. Sir Simon Locard was entrusted to carry the key to the casket of Robert the Bruce's heart during a crusade in 1329. To commemorate the quest, he changed the family name to Lockhart.
Cunningham
The Cunningham family's roots date back to 1140, when they settled in the district of Ayrshire. Alexander de Cunningham was made Earl of Glencairn by James III in 1488, and was known as a fair and honest leader.
Macbeth
The Macbeth clan will always be associated with Shakespeare's tragedy, but the real Scottish king was not so callous. He ruled from 1040–1057 and was known as a military force on the battlefield, yet governed with wisdom and generosity.
History of Plaid
The American
Influence.
While the historical significance of plaid isn't quite the same in the U.S. as in Scotland, it's made a great impact on American culture. Plaid arrived with early European settlers but didn't become a popular shirt until the 1800s, first emerging in the service sector as a kind of uniform for laborers, showing up as heavy wool and cotton work shirts built to endure a hard day on the job.
The red and black check became popular with lumber workers and entered the mainstream through the folk hero Paul Bunyan, forever linking the flannel shirt to the lumberjack. From there, different variations attached to different groups: surf culture adopted the flannel in the 1960s (The Beach Boys were almost named The Pendletones for the plaid shirts they always wore), the 70s saw it tied at the waist, the 80s punk scene wore it as rebellion, and the 90s forged the grunge scene. Every generation has had an emotional connection with the plaid flannel, and we see it today through the outdoor movement.
Beneath
the Weave.
A technical look at how a plaid pattern is woven, and how to identify its many types and variations.
Beneath the Weave
How It's Made
At its most simple, plaids are created through weaving tightly interlacing yarns at a 90-degree angle. The vertical yarns, called the warp, are held taut on the loom through eyelets called heddles. The horizontal yarns, called the weft, are pulled through the warp with a guiding device called a shuttle. This is repeated until the desired quantity of fabric is created.
Patterns come from choosing different amounts and colors of yarn for both the warp and weft. The symmetrical plaids we know today use the same layout and colors for both directions, which allows for endless design and color combinations.
Beneath the Weave
The 2×2 Twill Weave
The most traditional looms are twill looms, which rotate the warp yarns each time the shuttle passes through. This creates the diagonal ‘tick’ that makes a twill weave recognizable, and it provides the iconic hash marks found in any classic flannel.
Beneath the Weave
Types &
Variations
Plaid patterns are made of repeated squares called a sett. A sett can use the same thread pattern in the warp as in the weft, or a different one. In the tartan below, the warp mirrors the weft. Zoom into any square and you'll find the whole pattern in miniature.
You never know when you'll need to drop some plaid knowledge. There are many types, but here are some of the most common, and how to identify them.
Shepherd's Check
One of the oldest and simplest plaids, two colors of yarn in the same size, alternating. Commonly known today as buffalo plaid, it's the most timeless and outdoorsy of patterns. We modernize it in our Rust Red flannel, still unmistakably the classic red-and-black lumberjack look.
Tartan
Vertical and horizontal lines cross to form different sized checks. This is the most common plaid you'll see, with multi-color yarns, different scales, endless complexity. It's the truest, most pure form of traditional plaid from Scotland.
Windowpane
Pretty self-explanatory, it is a solid ground with a simple square outline woven through, mimicking a window pane. We use a windowpane in our Dove Grey flannel to add detail to what might otherwise read as a one-color cloth.
Madras
Derived from East India, madras is known for bright, colorful stripes and checks. The layout is usually uneven and uses multiple colors for a more preppy look. Commonly used on lightweight fabrics, it's associated with spring and summer.
Conclusion
Here to Stay.
How is this 2,500-year-old pattern still relevant today? From a technical standpoint, it's ever-changing. The variations of color, design, and scale give plaid the ability to adapt to any trend. Because the pattern is such a simple series of directional lines, there's so much you can do with it.
From a social level, plaid has always been a sign of cultural identity, whether it identified your Scottish clan or helped you fit in at your local, overpriced artisanal coffee shop. Wearing the pattern connects you with a particular group of people. Plaid is a statement of inclusion, and it's human nature to want to belong. So no matter what the future brings, we're certain there will always be some form of plaid to go with it.
